Monday, August 29, 2016

Fall 2016 Hours for the Adrian G. Marcuse Library

The Adrian G. Marcuse Library's Fall 2016 hours will begin on Monday, August 29th. This fall we will be open during the following hours:

Monday - Thursday: 7:30am - 9:00pm
Friday: 8:00am - 5:00pm
Saturday: 10:00am - 4:00pm*
Sunday: Closed

We will be extending our Ask-A-Librarian service and this semester we will be offering the service during the following hours:

Monday - Thursday: 12:00pm - 4:00pm and 6:30 - 8:30pm
Friday: 12:00pm - 4:00pm
Saturday: 11:00am - 3:00pm*

We look forward to working with you all throughout the fall semester!

*Saturday hours start September 10. Please note the Library will be closed Saturday, October 22.

Wednesday, August 24, 2016

Last Chance Reading

With summer coming to an end and homework looming around the corner, why not squeeze in as much ‘fun’ reading as possible?! The Adrian G.Marcuse Library has a large fiction collection and we’ve added some great titles recently. Come check out:

Judy Blume
813.54 BLU

Emma Cline
813.6 CLI

Gemma Burgess
823.9 BUR

Jojo Moyes
823.92 MOY

Posted on August 24, 2016 I Blog post by Nicole LaMoreaux, M.L.S. (Reference and Instruction Librarian)

Tuesday, August 16, 2016

End of Summer 2016 Hours

The Adrian G. Marcuse Library will be open from August 15 - August 26, 2016 during the following hours:

Monday - Thursday: 9am - 6pm
Friday: 9am - 5pm

The Ask-A-Librarian service will be available from Monday, August 15 - Thursday, August 18 during the following hours:

Monday - Thursday: 12pm - 4pm

Please note the Library will be closed Monday, August 22, 2016 and our Ask-A-Librarian service will not be available Monday, August 22 - Friday, August 26.

Monday, August 15, 2016

UK Prime Minister Theresa May's Footwear

New UK Prime Minister Theresa May is a conservative (Tory) politician whose taste in footwear is anything but conservative. The British press (particularly their famed tabloid press) loves to write about, and publish photos of, her surprisingly adventurous footwear. A Google image search of “Theresa May shoes” rewards with a large selection of unexpected spectacular shoes and boots; sparkly skimmers, animal-print heels, thigh-high boots, hologram wellies, and more.  Her wild fashion choices extend to her outfits, but less often and flamboyantly.
Photo 1: Thigh-high patent leather boots

Are May’s fashion choices solely an expression of her aesthetic, or does she use shoes to express and embody a female vision of political power? Such unconventional choices indicate that May does not fit the stereotype of conservative politician, and that she is a leader that makes bold decisions. May herself views her shoes as political and has described them as an “icebreaker.” Maybe that is why she wore thigh high croc boots to meet the Queen (SEE PHOTO 1). Or is the opposite effect occurring; does the media’s focus on May’s appearance disempower her? Sam Smethers, the chief executive of women's rights organization Fawcett Society, feels that female politicians are "constantly reduced to what they wear or what they look like." The image on the right illustrates the British press’ barely-contained fetishistic reading of May’s footwear choices; other Troy ministers underneath leopard print heels in a none-too-subtle nod to S&M (SEE PHOTO 2)? One question this image raises is, would the press write about a male politician’s shoe, or any items of clothing.
Photo 2: Leopard print heels

Can May’s shoes be used for political effect or are they a placeholder for belittling powerful women? Since May seems determined to use her clothing choices as symbols of a powerful political female leadership, we can likely expect several years of wild shoes from her. Perhaps the trend will catch on among politicians.  We may even see Hillary Clinton use leopard print heels to accessorize her pant suits!















Photos 3-5: Heels, skimmers and hologram wellies 







The Adrian G. Marcuse Library has several books and periodicals focused on footwear throughout (fashion) history. Check them out today!


Posted on August 15, 2016 I Blog post by Lou Acierno, M.L.I.S. (Director of Library Services)


Wednesday, August 10, 2016

2016 Fashion: Now & Then: Fashion as Art Conference Schedule

The 2016 Fashion: Now & Then: Fashion as Art Conference schedule has been published! You can find the full schedule below.


Schedule Day 1 – Thursday, October 20, 2016

Townhouse, 12 East 53rd Street, New York, NY 10022


5:30 PM – 6:30 PM

Conference Registration

6:30 PM – 7:15 PM: Fourth Floor

"CEZANNES of SUBURBIA" The Mid-Century Craze for Paint by Number 

Amanda Hallay

7:15 PM – 9:00 PM: FashionOpolis

Opening Reception


Schedule Day 2 – Friday, October 21, 2016

Townhouse, 12 East 53rd Street, New York, NY 10022



9:00 AM – 10:15 AM

Breakfast & Registration


10:15 AM – 10:30 AM

Welcome & Introduction


10:30 AM – 11:30 AM: Fourth Floor

Keynote Presentation
The Art of the Fashion Plate
April Calahan


11:30 AM – 11:40 AM

Break


11:40 AM – 12:40 PM


Session A


Session A: Fourth Floor

Appropriate(d) Attire, The Use of Canadian First Nations Art Motifs in Fashion 

Mark O’Connell 

Culture, Communication, and Kimono: the Art of Traditional Japanese Layering, Wrapped in a Modern Context 
Julia DiNardo

Costume and Culture: Examples of Artistry in the Costume Images from Digital Special Collections of the American Museum of Natural History
Stacy Schiff


12:40 PM – 2:00 PM

Lunch


2:00 PM – 3:00 PM

Concurrent Sessions B & C


Session B: Fourth Floor

The Art of Business and the Business of Art: Fashion and Costume Design in Conversation

Gordon Kendall and Alexandra Sargent

“Fashion Wears Art: The Depiction, Interpretation, and Creation of Art on Garments”

Doris Domoszlai-Lantner

Karl the King – Designer, Brand, or Business? The Status Quo of Karl Lagerfeld

Ansgar Buschmann and Gerhard Schewe


Session C: FashionOpolis

Mutual Influence: Artists’ Books and Luxury Brands Direct Mail Booklets

Roberta Brody

Fashionable Shopping Bags as Art Forms

Nicole Kirpalani

"Yeohlee Teng: A Case Study of Fashion as Art"

Thomai Serdari


3:00 PM – 3:10 PM

Break


3:10 PM – 4:10 PM

Concurrent Sessions D & E


Session D: Fourth Floor

Gender Fluidity in Men’s Fashion – From Shakespeare and the Birth of Modern English to 1980’s Club Culture 
Patti Jordan

“Tomorrow’s Fashions” in Adam in the Looking Glass: The First Menswear Exhibition Forecasts the Future 1950
Diane Maglio

Cutting a Dash: Form, Function and Flash – The Past, Present and Future Limits of Men’s Fashion
Tim Edwards


Session E: FashionOpolis

Fashionable Fractals: Finding the Message in Midcentury Fashion Advertising Art

Sally Stokes

The evolution of fine art in fashion advertising 
Susan Baxter, Dudley Blossom, Marin Sullivan

“In Vogue, Out of Vogue: Modern Art’s Interwar Fashion Cycle”

Rachael Barron-Duncan


4:10 PM – 4:20 PM

Break


4:20 PM – 5:20 PM

Concurrent Sessions F & G


Session F: Fourth Floor

The Death of Urban Fashion: For Us But No Longer By Us

Tara Robinson

From Michael to McQueen: How these Two Fashion Icons Defined Postmodern Culture of New York City and London 
Carol Brathwaite

From postmodern apparel to post-humanism - The ›Union Jack Coat‹ by Alexander McQueen and David Bowie
Rainer Wenrich


Session G: FashionOpolis

NFL into Fashion: Prototype Development of NFL Apparel for the Female Fans 

May Chae

Fashion, Fit, and the Human Body: Technology, Change, and Sustainability 
Andrea Kennedy 

Emilie Flöge: Gesamtkunstwerk Embodied 
Kat Buckley



5:20 PM – 5:30 PM

Break


5:30 PM – 6:30 PM

Session H


Session H: Fourth Floor

Inspiration and Interpretation: The Influence of Museum Research in the Fashion Designs of Emily Wilkens 
Rebecca Jumper Matheson

Fashioning a Legacy in Art: Evidence from Processing the Charles James Papers at The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute
Celia Hartmann and Caitlin McCarthy

Haute Couture and Libraries

Rebecca Markman


6:30 PM

MoMA Fridays and Morgan Library Fridays



Schedule Day 3 - Saturday, October 22, 2016

Townhouse, 12 East 53rd Street, New York, NY 10022



10:00 AM – 11:00 AM

Breakfast & Registration


11:00 AM – 11:15 AM

Ron Knoth Scholarship Announcement & Introduction


11:15 AM – 12:45 PM

Ron Knoth Panel – Menswear as Art


12:45 PM – 1:45 PM

Lunch


1:45 PM – 2:45 PM

Concurrent Sessions I & J


Session I: Fourth Floor

Beyond Shoulder Pads: Documenting the Fashion of the 1980s 

Cristina Favretto

More Than “Summer Girls”: Music Videos and Abercrombie Style at the turn of the Millennium
Myles Ethan Lascity

Esther Greenwood, Patrick Bateman, and Jean Paul Gaultier: The Rhetorics of Fashion in Literature and Film 
Ken Kambara and John Deming


Session J: FashionOpolis

Unashamedly fake: The cultural significance of costume jewelry 

Kelsi Stoltenow

The History of Leopard Print: An Illustrated Lecture

Jo Weldon

Golly Am I Worried: A 1953 Bride and Her Midwestern Wedding

Ashley Hasty


2:45 PM – 2:55 PM

Break


2:55 PM – 3:55 PM

Concurrent Sessions K & L


Session K: Fourth Floor

Prêt-à-"Portent": Opening a World of Fashion Forecasts at FIT 
Lana Bittman and Tabitha Hanslick 

Fashion Archives: Educational and Corporate Bodies 
Samantha Houck 

Book/Cloth: Fashion as Information at the Banff Centre Library 
Marianne Williams

Session L: FashionOpolis

Art in Dress: Home Sewers and Professionals in the 1920s.

Nora Ellen Carelson

'Chanel, Schiaparelli, Dalí...A trilogy of art, design & fashion...with a twist of muse' 
LeeAnn Turgeon-Rutkovsky 

Reason for Being: Fashion Illustration and Art 
Colleen Schindler-Lynch


3:55 PM – 4:05 PM

Break


4:05 PM – 5:05 PM

Concurrent Sessions M & N


Session M: Fourth Floor

Fashion Bloggers and Social Media Influencers: Their Impact on the Future of Fashion History
Alisa Otto

“Fashion as Art: The World of Fashion Media”
John Keane

Cultivating Culture: The Art of the Magazine Cover 
John Deming and Maranda Janky


Session N: FashionOpolis

The Art of Visual Merchandising
Grailing King

FASHIONING ART: RODARTE DESIGN AND DISPLAY, A CASE STUDY
Jennifer Nieling

ART AND FASHION: A PHOTOGRAPHIC SYMBIOSIS
Muriel Berthou-Crestey


5:05 PM – 5:15 PM

Break


5:15 PM – 6:15 PM
Session O


Session O: Fourth Floor

Art>Fashion>Fashion Forecasting Education 
Nancy Ostroff 

The New Cynosures of Fashion 
Kimberly Guthrie and Michael Fisher 

Fashioning Experiential Learning Opportunity: SMOC, DReSS, and the Library 
Shirley Calla and Denise Dale


6:15 PM

Closing Reception


Artists and Artworks

Apparel:
Andrinka Jumpsuit + Jacket #1 - Harry Umen and Laura McCarthy (digital display)
Fading Dandelion - Alisa Otto (digital display)
Intertwined Happiness - Chanjuan Chen and Linda Ohrn-McDaniel
Luminous Firefly Dress - Harry Umen and Laura McCarthy
 “¿Quien soy? Who am I?” - Stefanie Ramirez
Rebirth - Chanjuan Chen (digital display)
WARMY: Heating Vest - Helen Koo and Douagee Cheng

Painting:
Untitled 01 - Olga Alexander
Untitled 03 - Olga Alexander

Photograph:
Co-Splay Breast Plates – Medieval to Modern (Co-Splay Breast Plate 001 and Co-Splay Breast Plate 002) - Patti Jordan

Print:
Conceptual Magazine Editorial for Ahola: A Site-Specific Public Fashion Project - Henry Navarro and Fiona Toreens (digital display)

Register Today!

Tuesday, August 2, 2016

New York’s Underground: Fashion Meets Nightlife

As LIM College students, our exposure to the fashion industry circles a wide range of sectors and categories. Early on in our curriculum, we see that trends repeat themselves in cycles which are followed by peaks and falls. This is how the majority of this industry works, which is key to the success of brands. Some designers, like Vivienne Westwood, Jeremy Scott, and Nicola Formichetti, are finding their inspirations from a scene that was most prominent in the ‘80s and is still around today: New York nightlife, and Club Kids. If you’ve ever heard of a place called Limelight or Studio 54, you know about this scene.

Avant-garde fashion and the post-Punk scene in London (that continued its relevance with the designs of Alexander McQueen) pushed seasoned nightlife professionals like Susanne Bartsch, Leigh Bowery, and Kenny Kenny to take the party over to New York. New York was filled with new icons, including James St. James, Michael Alig, and Amanda Lepore. These individuals pushed fashion and beauty to new extents and created a subculture of their own.

Although much of the original scene in the ‘80s died out, especially with the closure of Limelight and Studio 54, the party still continues. Susanne Bartsch now hosts “On Top”, a Tuesday night event on the rooftop of the Standard Hotel that regulars like Amanda Lepore, Joe Arias, and Ryan Burke attend. Trends including cyber punk looks, extreme platform sneakers, and baby doll dresses hit the runway soon after hitting the dancefloor. Moschino, Nicopanda, and Heatherette all feature looks specifically inspired by the trends set out by NYC nightlife.

For more on the original New York Club Kids of the 1980s, please check out Party Monster, located under “DVD PAR” in the DVD section
For more on Susanne Bartsch’s past and present of nightlife in New York, please check out Fashion Underground: The World of Susanne Bartsch, located under “764.92092 VSM”. 

Posted on August 02, 2016 I Blog post by Thomas Goonan (student worker of the LIM College Library)




Monday, July 18, 2016

Making Scents of Perfume Marketing

Fragrances have the power to evoke emotions and trigger memories when we least expect it. But can fragrance packaging be just as effective as its scent? The LIM College Archives is tackling this question as it processes the Stanley Kohlenberg Collection. Mr. Kohlenberg, adjunct faculty member at LIM College, has documented an insider’s look of the cosmetics and fragrance industry from 1959 through today. He is someone who not only understands the science behind creating scents but also the art of packaging and branding them. With a science degree from Columbia University, Mr. Kohlenberg quickly transitioned in his career from pharmacy to his true calling of marketing and distribution. He became an integral part of beauty companies like Revlon, Calvin Klein Cosmetics, Coty, Sanofi Beaute, and CFT Marketing. As founder of CFT Marketing, he was responsible for the distribution of The Marilyn Monroe Collection (and the Marilyn Monroe name for beauty products) in the early ‘80s. The packaging and ad below feature playful images of Marilyn that create a positive association with the product—without even knowing what the scent smells like.

The bottle, packaging, and advertising (above) feature the dazzling Marilyn Monroe with the catchy tag line “Wistful. Glamorous. Sultry. Quixotic. There’s a little Marilyn Monroe in Every Woman.” Stanley Kohlenberg Collection / LIM College Archives. © 1983 The Estate of Marilyn Monroe

Celebrities and their endorsements—whether intentional or not—can help to persuade customers to develop opinions about products, especially when it comes to beauty. For instance, Marilyn Monroe helped boost sales and the popularity of Chanel No. 5 twice: The first was with one photograph (circa 1955) where she is seen dabbing on the fragrance in a string of pearls. The second was when an interviewer asked her what she wore to bed, and her famous reply was “Chanel No. 5.” Similarly, perfume bottles can have the same effect. Packaging is an art form, and perfume bottles, in particular, are often collected solely for their creative designs and elegant feel. On a quest for answering the question of packaging versus scent, I found myself exploring different perfumes, brands and, of course, books. The following is a list of recommended titles on this topic from the Adrian G. Marcuse Library. So come check out these books, and the next time you buy your favorite perfume or cologne, think twice about what is driving your purchase!

By Tillar J. Mazzeo
[Call number: 338.7 MAZ]

By Elisabeth Barillé
[Call number: 668 BAR]

By Jacqueline Johnson
[Call number: 741.67 JOH]

By Judith Miller
[Call number 748.82 MIL]

By Cathy Newman
[Call number: 668 NEW]

To view Stanley Kohlenberg’s Collection, including a special collection of scents from the Fragrance Foundation, please contact the LIM College Archives: elizabeth.marotta@limcollege.edu.

Sources


Posted on July 18, 2016 I Blog post by Elizabeth Marotta, M.L.I.S. (Archivist/Librarian)